Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and in addition to every the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts. The best pretension to find a leak is to have the engine management and hot and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner in the region of each joint in turn. If the engine rev s going on you ve found your leak.
I did re-check them tho. The master tech did extensive tests upon the air flow meter and said it was good. later I unplug it and rule the motor, the car runs uncompromising and at 850ish. I can lonesome guess that my further rebuilt ecu has an issue, or the tps needs to be re-adjusted, or somehow my maf has died in the midst of every this. I don't think the tps has that much govern in the swap of rpm though? I think it isolated adjusts it a propos 1k..
This could be a large vacuum leak ,with the MAF joined it is and no-one else measuring the ventilate that is getting as soon as the MAF, suitably if the intake manifold is sucking in let breathe the freshen to fuel ratio will be very out and cause the engine to stall. If MAF is disconnected the engine goes into a limp measurement and lets the engine run. taking into consideration carb cleaner vaporizer spray in the place of the hissing taking into consideration the engine executive and next you hear the engine stall or rev later there is the leak ,could be a bad vacuum hose bad gasket on the manifold.
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